How to Clean, Wash, and Maintain Real and Faux Sheepskin Rugs at Home

Hello Tannery Talk. That soft, inviting rug underfoot is looking a bit dull or stained, and you’re wondering if you can fix it yourself. I’m here to tell you, you absolutely can.

This article will show you my hands-on approach, covering gentle spot cleaning, safe washing techniques, and simple upkeep habits for both real and faux sheepskin.

My years of repairing and conditioning leather goods, from saddles to jackets, have taught me the care these materials need.

Real vs. Faux Sheepskin: Your First Step to Safe Care

Before you touch a cleaner, you need to know what you’re working with. Getting this wrong is the fastest way to damage a beautiful rug.

Real sheepskin is a tanned animal hide. The leather side, or skin, has been preserved just like my jacket June. The wool side is the natural fleece. Faux sheepskin is entirely synthetic, usually a polyester or acrylic pile glued to a fabric backing.

Think of it this way: caring for real sheepskin is like caring for your own skin and hair. You need gentle cleansers and moisturizers. Caring for faux is more like washing a delicate sweater. You focus on the fibers and the adhesive holding it together.

If you own a real sheepskin, I believe it’s worth considering its origin. Look for rugs sourced from responsible farms where animal welfare is a priority, much like seeking out ethically tanned leather for your goods. This care extends from how the animal was raised to how the hide was processed.

This fundamental difference dictates every single cleaning step that follows. The wrong product can strip natural oils from real leather or melt the synthetic fibers of a faux rug.

Your Daily Sheepskin Rug Care Routine

Good care is about small, consistent habits. This routine keeps dirt from settling in and makes the occasional deep clean much easier, whether you have a real or faux rug.

Shake It Out

Once a week, take your rug outside. Give it a firm shake to dislodge loose dirt, dust, and crumbs. For a real sheepskin, this helps preserve the wool’s loft. For a faux one, it prevents grit from grinding into the base fabric. It’s the same reason I give my saddle pad Mason a good beat before storing it.

Brush Gently

Every couple of weeks, use a brush. This untangles the fibers and brings life back to the pile.

• Tool: Use a pet slicker brush or a wide-tooth wool comb. These are designed for delicate fibers without sharp pins.
• Method: Brush in the direction of the wool nap. Use light, fluid strokes. Don’t scrub or press hard.

Brushing real sheepskin redistributes its natural lanolin oils. For faux, it simply realigns the synthetic pile.

Vacuum with Care

Vacuuming is necessary, but you must be gentle. A standard floor vacuum’s rotating beater bar will tear the wool from a real hide and potentially shred a faux one.

Always use the upholstery attachment on the lowest suction setting. Hold the attachment just above the surface of the wool and move slowly. Let the suction do the work without pressing the tool into the fibers.

Spot Clean Spills Immediately

Act fast. The goal is to absorb the spill before it soaks in.

1. Blot-never rub-with a clean, absorbent white cloth. Rubbing pushes liquid deeper and can felt real wool or distort faux fibers.
2. For water-based spills (juice, wine), a slightly damp cloth with cool water may be all you need for a final blot.
3. Let the area air dry completely away from direct heat before using the rug again.

This immediate blotting is the same first-aid I’d use on my wallet Scout if it got a spill on it. Quick action prevents a small issue from becoming a permanent stain.

How to Tackle Stains on Sheepskin Rugs

Spills happen. It’s a fact of life with any floor covering. Your first move is the most important one. I treat a stain on a sheepskin rug the same way I treat one on Mason, my old saddle: with immediate, gentle action.

The single most important rule for any stain is to blot, never rub. Rubbing works the spill deeper into the fibers and can damage the hide’s surface. Gently press down with a clean, absorbent cloth to lift as much liquid as you can.

A Quick Guide to Common Stains

Time is your ally. Here’s how to handle typical accidents. Always work from the outer edge of the stain toward the center to avoid spreading it.

Stain Type	First Step	Next Step
Pet Accidents	Blot up liquid. Scrape up solids.	Use a 50/50 white vinegar and water solution to neutralize odors, then blot with clean water.
Oily/Grease	Sprinkle cornstarch or baking soda to absorb, let sit for an hour, then brush off.	This often lifts the stain. If a mark remains, proceed with a gentle cleaner.
Food & Drink	Blot thoroughly with cool water.	For sticky residues, a tiny bit of mild soap on a damp cloth can break it down.
Mud	Let it dry completely.	Once dry, brush it out vigorously with your fingers or a soft brush. Vacuum the debris.

Cleaning Real Sheepskin

Real sheepskin is a natural, tanned hide with wool. Think of it like a very dense, luxurious version of the leather on my jacket, June. It needs a gentle touch to preserve its softness.

Your best tool is a damp cloth and a mild, wool-safe soap. Saddle soap is a great choice, as it’s designed for cleaning and conditioning animal hides in one step.

1. Mix a small amount of soap with cool water to create suds.
2. Wring out a soft cloth in the sudsy water until it is just damp.
3. Gently wipe the stained area, following the direction of the wool nap.
4. Rinse your cloth in clean, cool water, wring it out, and wipe the area again to remove any soap residue.
5. Blot the area dry with a towel and let it air dry away from direct heat.

Never soak real sheepskin, as getting the hide backing too wet can make it stiff.

Cleaning Faux Sheepskin

Faux sheepskin, usually made from synthetic fibers like polyester, is often more stain-resistant by design. It’s less porous than real hide, so spills might bead up on the surface at first.

You can usually use a mild detergent solution. A drop of clear dish soap in a bowl of cool water works well.

• Dampen a cloth in the solution and dab at the stain.
• Use a soft-bristled brush (like a nail brush) to gently work on tougher spots.
• Blot with a cloth dipped in plain water to rinse.
• Blot dry. The synthetic material often dries faster than real wool.

The Non-Negotiable First Step: Test It

Before you apply any cleaner, soap, or solution to a visible area, you must test it. This is not a suggestion. I test every new conditioner on a hidden part of Scout, my wallet, first. It has saved me from disaster.

Find an inconspicuous spot, like a corner on the back or underside. Apply a tiny amount of your cleaning solution. Wait for it to dry completely. Check for any color change, stiffening, or damage to the fibers. If all looks good, you can proceed with confidence.

Can You Wash a Real Sheepskin Rug? The Hand-Wash Method

Can you wash a sheepskin rug? Yes, you absolutely can. But treat the idea of using a washing machine with great suspicion. The violent agitation and heat in a machine can felt the wool, matting it into a stiff, solid mass. It can also weaken the leather backing. Hand-washing is the only method I trust for a prized rug. With proper at-home care, you can clean it without damaging the wool or backing. The next steps outline a safe, at-home method.

Think of it like washing a very delicate, very expensive sweater that has a leather back. You would never throw that in the machine. You give it gentle, mindful care. Your sheepskin deserves the same.

Gather Your Tools First

Being prepared makes the whole process smoother and safer for the leather. You will need:

• A bathtub or a plastic storage bin large enough for the rug to lay flat.
• Cool or lukewarm water. Never use hot water.
• A shampoo made for wool or a gentle, pH-balanced leather cleaner.
• White vinegar (for the final rinse, to restore softness).
• Two or three clean, thick towels.

The Step-by-Step Wash

Follow these steps slowly. There’s no prize for speed here.

1. Pre-rinse: Fill your tub with 3-4 inches of cool water. Submerge the rug completely, wool-side down. Gently press it into the water to saturate it. Let it soak for 5 minutes. This loosens surface dirt.
2. Clean: Drain the dirty water. Refill the tub with fresh cool water, just enough to cover the rug. Add a small amount of your wool or leather shampoo-about a teaspoon for a large rug is plenty. Swish the water to distribute it.
3. Agitate Gently: With the rug submerged, use a gentle, kneading motion with your hands. Imagine you are massaging dough very softly. Focus on soiled areas. Avoid any scrubbing, wringing, or twisting, as this damages the wool’s natural structure and stresses the leather.
4. Rinse, Rinse, Rinse: This is the most critical step. Drain the soapy water. Refill the tub with fresh cool water and gently agitate the rug to rinse. Drain and repeat. You must do this until the water runs completely clear with no soap suds. Any leftover soap will attract more dirt and make the wool feel stiff.
5. The Softening Rinse: For the final rinse, add one cup of white vinegar to a tub of fresh cool water. Submerge the rug and agitate gently for a minute. The vinegar neutralizes any alkaline soap residue, which is what makes wool feel crunchy. It leaves the fibers fluffy and soft.

Removing the Water: The Press, Don’t Twist Method

Your rug will be heavy with water. Do not wring it out. Instead, press the water out.

Lift the rug and let the main flow of water drain into the tub. Then, lay it wool-side down on a clean, dry towel. Roll the towel and rug together into a loose log. Gently press and knead the roll to let the towel absorb the moisture. You will likely need to repeat this with a second or third dry towel. The goal is to remove as much water as possible before the drying stage, without distorting the skin or wool.

Washing a Faux Sheepskin Rug: Can You Use a Washing Machine?

Yes, you can wash a faux or real sheepskin rug in a machine, but only if the care label explicitly says it is safe. Treat that label as your rule book. If the tag is missing or says “spot clean only,” do not put it in the washer.

Think of a faux sheepskin rug like my leather jacket, June. She can handle a lot, but she has specific needs. A washing machine is a rough environment. The goal is to clean without damaging the fibers or backing.

The Machine Washing Protocol

If the label gives you the green light, follow this strict routine. Deviating from it risks matting the fibers or causing the backing to crack.

1. Pre-treat stains. Gently dab any obvious spots with a cloth dampened with a mix of cool water and a tiny drop of mild, clear detergent.
2. Use a mesh laundry bag. This is non-negotiable. Place the rug inside a large, zippered mesh bag. It protects the fibers from getting torn or tangled in the machine’s drum.
3. Select the correct settings. Use the gentle or delicate cycle with cold water only. Hot water can damage the synthetic fibers and adhesives.
4. Add a mild detergent. Use half the amount you normally would for a regular load. Opt for a detergent free of dyes and heavy fragrances.

Never use bleach or fabric softener. Bleach will degrade the material, and fabric softener coats fibers in a residue that makes them limp and greasy, ruining the fluffy texture you love.

Hand-Washing: The Safer Alternative

Hand-washing is always the gentler choice. It gives you complete control, much like carefully conditioning an old saddle. This is my preferred method for preserving any textured material.

You will need a bathtub or large basin, cool water, and a wool wash or baby shampoo. These cleaners are pH-balanced and rinse cleanly.

1. Fill your tub with enough cool water to submerge the rug.
2. Add a very small amount of wool wash (about a teaspoon) and swish it to distribute.
3. Submerge the rug and gently agitate it with your hands for 3-5 minutes. Do not twist, wring, or scrub.
4. Drain the soapy water. Refill the tub with cool, clean water and gently press the rug to rinse. Repeat this rinse until the water runs completely clear, which may take 2-3 refills.

Drying Your Rug Correctly

This step is just as important as washing. Improper drying is where most damage happens.

• After washing (machine or hand), gently press out excess water. Never wring it.
• Lay the rug flat on a clean, dry towel. Roll it up in the towel and press firmly to absorb more moisture.
• Lay the rug flat on a fresh, dry towel or a drying rack in a well-ventilated room, away from direct heat and sunlight. A fan can help circulate air.
• Flip the rug every few hours to ensure both sides dry evenly. This can take 24-48 hours.

Patience is your best tool here. Rushing the process with a clothes dryer, hairdryer, or radiator will melt, shrink, or stiffen the fibers. Let it air dry completely.

How to Dry a Sheepskin Rug Without Damaging It

You did the hard part. The cleaning is over. Now, what you do next is what truly decides if your rug stays soft and shapely or becomes stiff and shrunken. The drying stage is more critical than the washing for preserving your sheepskin, especially if you washed it yourself. Washing yourself requires extra care to avoid damage.

Think of a wet sheepskin like a delicate sponge. If you twist it, the skin backing and the wool fibers can stretch and tear in ways they can’t recover from. Your first job is to get the heavy water out, gently.

The Gentle Press-Out

For both real and faux sheepskin, the rule is the same: press, never wring. Lay your damp rug wool-side down on a thick, absorbent bath towel. Roll it up tightly, like a sleeping bag. Then, press down firmly along the entire roll with your hands and knees. You’ll see a shocking amount of water transfer to the towel.

This simple press removes most of the damaging moisture before the long air dry even begins.

Unroll it, move the rug to a dry section of the towel (or a new one), and repeat the press once more. You want it damp, not dripping.

The Perfect Drying Spot

Find a well-ventilated room, away from radiators, fireplaces, or sunny windows. Direct heat is the enemy. It bakes the natural oils out of real leather and can melt or distort the synthetic fibers of faux skins. Lay the rug completely flat, wool-side up, on a dry towel or a mesh drying rack. The air needs to circulate above and below it.

Can You Put a Sheepskin Rug in the Dryer?

This is the question I hear most, and the answer requires a firm line.

For a genuine sheepskin rug, the answer is an absolute no. The intense, direct heat of a dryer will cook the leather backing. It will become brittle and crack, like a piece of bread left in the oven too long. The shrinkage can be dramatic and irreversible.

For a high-quality faux sheepskin, some care labels might permit it, but you must be very careful. If you choose this riskier path, use only the air fluff or no-heat setting. Even the “low” heat setting is often too warm. Tumble drying with any heat will mat the synthetic fibers and can warp the backing.

The safe choice for both types is always patience and air drying.

The Waiting Game and The Fluff

Air drying a thick sheepskin takes time-often a full day or two. Do not rush it. Every few hours, gently turn the rug over. This prevents moisture from getting trapped underneath and promotes even drying.

Here is the secret to restoring that cloud-like softness: fluff while damp. As the wool or synthetic fibers become halfway dry, use your fingers to gently tousle and separate them. For real sheepskin, a pet slicker brush or a wide-tooth comb works wonders. Brush in the direction of the nap.

This periodic fluffing prevents the fibers from matting together as they dry, which is what causes that stiff, felted feeling.

Once completely dry, give it one final, vigorous fluff and brush. You’ll feel the difference. The rug will be clean, fresh, and ready to sink your feet into again, with all its softness intact.

The Right Tools and Products for Sheepskin Rug Care

Think of your rug care kit like a first-aid kit for your favorite leather jacket. You need the right tools to do a good job without causing harm. For sheepskin, this means a dedicated brush, a proper cleaner, and a guardian for future messes.

Your brush is your most important tool. For a real sheepskin rug, you want a slicker brush or a wide-tooth comb. These gently work through the dense wool without pulling or tearing the skin backing. It’s like using a wide-tooth comb on wet hair-it detangles with care. For a faux sheepskin rug, a softer bristle brush, like a clothes brush, is perfect. It smooths the synthetic fibers without being too harsh.

Using the wrong brush is a common mistake that can mat real wool or damage faux fibers, so choosing correctly from the start saves you from a headache later.

When it comes to cleaning, the golden rule is to be gentle. For real sheepskin, a wool wash or a mild, pH-neutral soap is your best friend. These are formulated to clean without stripping the wool’s natural lanolin, which keeps it soft. You might wonder about using baby shampoo. In a pinch, a small amount of clear, gentle baby shampoo can work as a one-time substitute for real sheepskin because it’s mild, but it’s not a long-term care solution. For faux sheepskin, a simple mix of cool water and a drop of mild dish soap or a dedicated upholstery cleaner works well.

Always test any cleaner on a small, hidden corner of the rug first and let it dry completely to check for color changes or texture issues.

For real sheepskin, consider a protectant spray. After thorough cleaning and once the rug is fully dry, a light application of a fabric or wool protector can help guard against future spills and stains. It creates an invisible barrier, giving you a little more time to blot up accidents. Faux sheepskin generally doesn’t need this extra step.

Bringing Back the Fluff: Restoring Your Rug’s Softness

After cleaning and drying, your rug might look a little flat or feel matted. Don’t worry-this is normal. The fluff can always come back. This final step is where the magic happens and your rug returns to its cozy self.

Start with your hands. Once the rug is dry to the touch, gently work your fingers into the pile. Lift and separate the clumps of fibers. Do this across the entire surface. For real sheepskin, you are gently teasing apart the wool curls. For faux, you are loosening any compressed synthetic strands.

Next, use your brush. For a real sheepskin rug, wait until it is bone-dry. Then, using your slicker brush or comb, give the entire rug a gentle, thorough brushing in the direction of the wool’s natural nap. This final gentle brush once completely dry restores the natural loft and bounce of the wool, reviving that cloud-like softness.

For a faux sheepskin rug, you can brush it once it’s mostly dry. Use your soft bristle brush to fluff and realign all the synthetic fibers. Brush in one consistent direction to smooth everything out and erase any matted spots from cleaning. If you have a real sheepskin rug, it’s important to be even more gentle to avoid damaging the delicate natural fibers.

Be patient. If an area is still flat after brushing, go back with your fingers to lift it and brush again. Sometimes it takes a few passes. The goal is a uniform, fluffy texture that invites you to sink your toes into it once more.

How to Store Your Sheepskin Rug to Keep It Perfect

Putting your rug away for the season is not just about finding empty space. It’s a promise to future you that it will come out looking just as good. A little care now prevents big problems later, like moth holes in real wool or deep, permanent creases in the faux pile.

Clean First, Store Second

Never, ever store a dirty rug. Dirt and skin oils attract pests and can become permanently set over time, dulling the fibers. For real sheepskin, use a pH-balanced wool cleaner. For faux shearling, a gentle, neutral cleaner works well. Proper cleaning and conditioning are essential to maintain their softness and prevent damage.

My process is simple. I vacuum the rug thoroughly on both sides. Then, I spot-clean any stains with a damp cloth and a tiny amount of cleaner, always testing in a corner first. I let it dry completely, away from direct heat. A fully dry rug is non-negotiable; storing it damp invites mold and a musty smell you can’t fix.

The Right Fold and the Right Bag

How you fold it matters. You want to avoid sharp, tight creases in the leather or backing. Gently roll or fold the rug with the wool or furry side facing out. This protects the more delicate skin or backing material on the inside of the fold.

Now, find it a home. A breathable cotton storage bag is ideal. An old pillowcase works in a pinch. You must avoid plastic bags or vacuum seals at all costs; they trap moisture and will ruin the hide. Think of it like your leather jacket, June; she needs to breathe in storage too.

Choosing a Storage Spot and Adding Protection

Pick a cool, dry, and dark place. Attics and damp basements are the enemies of leather and wool. A closet shelf or under-bed storage is usually perfect.

For real sheepskin, I always add a few cedar blocks or rings to the storage bag. Moths hate cedar. It’s a natural, effective deterrent that smells better than mothballs. For faux rugs, the cedar isn’t for pests, but it still helps keep the space fresh. Check on your rug every few months, give it a gentle shake, and air it out for an hour. This simple habit makes all the difference.

Common Questions

What should be in a basic sheepskin rug care kit?

A proper kit needs a slicker brush for real wool or a soft bristle brush for faux, a pH-neutral wool/leather cleaner for real hides, and a mild detergent for synthetics. Add white vinegar for a final softening rinse on real sheepskin and a few clean, white cloths for blotting.

Do I need different care for a cream-colored rug versus a brown one?

No, the cleaning process is identical regardless of color. The critical difference is vigilance; stains show faster on light rugs like cream, so immediate blotting is even more crucial to prevent setting a visible mark.

How do I store a rug long-term to prevent permanent damage?

After a full clean and ensuring it’s bone-dry, roll it wool-side out in a breathable cotton bag with cedar blocks for real sheepskin. Store it flat in a cool, dark, dry place-never in plastic, a vacuum seal, or a damp basement.

What’s the single most important maintenance habit?

Consistent, gentle brushing. It prevents dirt from embedding, redistributes natural oils in real wool, and maintains the pile’s loft, making every other cleaning task far easier and less frequent.

Keeping Your Sheepskin Rug Beautiful for Years

Act quickly on spills and follow a gentle, regular cleaning routine to protect the fibers from deep damage. This simple habit preserves the soft handfeel and rich appearance of both real and faux sheepskin far longer than any intensive rescue effort.

Maintaining a real sheepskin rug respectfully honors the animal it came from, which is why I support conditioners and cleaners from transparent, ethical suppliers. Building your care skills with each clean not only extends the rug’s life but also deepens your connection to a well-made item, especially when you understand the nuances of proper cleaning.

Deep Dive: Further Reading

• The Complete Sheepskin Rug Care Guide | Rug Care
• The Ultimate Sheepskin Rug Care Guide – Hyde & Hare
• Keep Your Real and Faux Sheepskin Rugs Clean and Soft
• How to wash a sheepskin rug and keep it looking great forever – Wilson & Dorset