Glossary

Navigating the world of Leather Care, Leather Goods Care, and Maintenance can be confusing. Tannery Talk has compiled this comprehensive glossary to help beginners and experts alike understand the terminology used in our articles and guides.

A

Aniline Leather: Definition: Leather dyed through with transparent dyes and minimal pigment or protective coating, showcasing natural grain and markings. It is breathable and luxurious but more susceptible to staining and fading.
Context: Requires gentle, pH-balanced cleaning and early protection.
Acrylic Finish: Definition: A clear, water-based polymer topcoat applied to seal dyes and protect the surface from abrasion and stains. It can be matte to gloss and influences cleanability and hand feel.
See also: Topcoat; Finish.
Alkaline Cleaner: Definition: A high-pH cleaning solution that effectively cuts oils and grime but can swell fibers, cause dye bleed, and damage finishes. Leather generally prefers neutral to slightly acidic cleaners.
Synonyms: High-pH degreaser.

B

Bloom (Fatty Bloom): Definition: A whitish, waxy film that rises to the surface as internal fats crystallize in cool conditions. It is not mold and usually wipes or warms off, though recurring bloom may indicate over-saturation.
Context: Common on wax/oil-rich leathers.
Beeswax: Definition: A natural wax used in polishes and balms to enhance water resistance and shine. It can slightly darken leather and should be buffed to avoid tackiness.
Synonyms: Cera alba.
Bicast Leather Care: Definition: Care protocols for split leather topped with a polyurethane (PU) film, which behaves more like a coated synthetic surface. Clean with mild, non-oily products and avoid traditional heavy conditioners that can haze the PU layer.
See also: Urethane (PU) Coating.

C

Conditioner: Definition: A blend of oils, waxes, and emollients designed to replenish lubricants, restore suppleness, and reduce friction between fibers. Overuse can oversoften or darken leather and attract soil.
Synonyms: Dressing; Balm.
Carnauba Wax: Definition: A hard, plant-derived wax used to produce durable, high-gloss finishes in polishes and edge compounds. It resists heat and scuffing better than softer waxes.
See also: Beeswax.
Color Transfer: Definition: The migration of dyes from textiles (e.g., denim) or other materials onto leather surfaces. It is easiest to remove early and should be prevented with protectants on light-colored leather.
See also: Dye Migration.

D

De-Glazer: Definition: A solvent-based preparation that removes surface finishes, oils, and contaminants prior to recoloring or refinishing. It dries leather and must be followed by careful dyeing and re-sealing.
Synonyms: Prep agent; Stripper.
Dye Migration: Definition: The movement of colorants within or out of leather triggered by heat, solvents, or moisture. It can result in blotching or rub-off and is managed by gentle cleaning and proper sealing.
See also: Color Transfer.
Dry Rot: Definition: Structural fiber embrittlement due to oxidation or acid hydrolysis, often presenting as cracking and powdering. It cannot be reversed but can be slowed with hydration control and gentle care.
See also: Red Rot.

E

Edge Paint: Definition: A flexible polymer coating applied to seal and finish cut edges of straps and small goods. Maintenance includes light sanding, heat-setting, and re-coating chips as needed.
Context: Choose compatible primers and topcoats.
Emollients: Definition: Softening agents in conditioners that lubricate collagen fibers to improve hand and flexibility. Select non-yellowing, oxidation-stable emollients to avoid long-term discoloration.
Examples: Lanolin derivatives, synthetic esters.
Exotic Leather Care: Definition: Specialized protocols for reptile, ostrich, and other non-bovine leathers to avoid lifting scales and follicle damage. Use pH-balanced products, soft brushes, and minimal oils.
See also: Quill Follicles (Ostrich).

F

Finish (Topcoat): Definition: The protective film applied over dyes and pigments that sets sheen, hand, and resistance to stains. Its integrity dictates the allowable cleaning strength and method.
See also: Acrylic Finish; Topcoat.
Full-Grain Leather: Definition: Leather with the complete grain layer intact, exhibiting the most strength, breathability, and potential for patina. Avoid heavy wax build-up that could block pores.
Context: Responds best to light, periodic conditioning.
Fungicide/Mildew Inhibitor: Definition: Additives used to suppress mold growth on leather surfaces and in storage. Use labeled, leather-safe biocides and rinse residues where applicable.
See also: Quaternary Ammonium Compounds; Mold/Mildew.

G

Gum Tragacanth: Definition: A natural gum used to smooth and bind edge fibers before burnishing or painting. It provides temporary tack and is often followed by wax or edge paint.
Synonyms: Trag.
Grain (Pebble/Embossed): Definition: The texture of the leather surface, whether natural or stamped, which influences soil retention and cleaning approach. Use soft brushes to dislodge dirt from recessed areas.
See also: Suede; Nubuck.
Grease Stains: Definition: Lipid contamination that darkens leather and resists water-based cleaners. Treat with absorbent powders (e.g., kaolin) and controlled solvent lifts to avoid halos.
Synonyms: Oil stains.

H

Hydrophobic Spray: Definition: A water-repellent treatment (often fluorinated or silicone-modified) that reduces wetting without fully occluding pores. It requires periodic reapplication and spot testing for darkening.
Context: Ideal for suede and nubuck protection.
Hardware Verdigris: Definition: Green copper corrosion products forming on brass/copper hardware that can transfer to leather. Mechanically clean, neutralize, and isolate metal to prevent reoccurrence.
See also: Verdigris.
Horsehair Brush: Definition: A soft-bristled brush used to remove dust and buff waxed finishes to a shine. It is gentle on delicate topcoats and aniline leathers.
Synonyms: Polishing brush.

I

Ink Stain Removal: Definition: The process of lifting writing ink using alcohol-based or specialty removers while minimizing dye disturbance. Rapid response and finish assessment improve outcomes.
See also: Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA).
Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA): Definition: A common solvent for spot cleaning and prep that can desiccate leather and soften finishes. Use in controlled, diluted applications and recondition afterwards.
Context: Ventilate and patch test.
Impregnated Leather: Definition: Leather infused with oils/waxes during tanning for enhanced water resistance and pull-up effects. Maintenance emphasizes gentle cleaning and minimal additional oils.
Synonyms: Oil-tan; Waxed leather.

J

Jojoba Oil: Definition: A stable liquid wax ester used in some conditioning balms to soften without rapid oxidation. Overuse can cause darkening and dust attraction.
Context: Prefer balanced formulations over neat application.
Joint Crease (Vamp Crease): Definition: Natural fold lines forming where footwear bends across the vamp or joints. Minimize prominence with proper fit, shoe trees, and routine conditioning.
See also: Conditioner.
Jigging Marks: Definition: Light handling or transport marks from finishing lines that may show as the finish wears. Typically cosmetic and mitigated by refinishing or light pigment touch-ups.
Context: More visible on high-sheen finishes.

K

Kip Leather: Definition: Leather from young cattle with a fine, tight grain and moderate firmness. It responds well to light, periodic conditioning and careful cleaning.
Context: Common in gloves, footwear, and small goods.
Kaolin Clay: Definition: A fine absorbent used as a dry-cleaning powder to lift oils and grease from leather. Allow dwell time and vacuum rather than rubbing to avoid halos.
Synonyms: Fuller’s earth.
Knife Marks (Cutting): Definition: Minor surface scratches introduced during cutting or patterning. They can be visually reduced with mild heat, pigment repair, and conditioning.
See also: Scuffs.

L

Lanolin: Definition: A wool-derived emollient that softens and adds water repellency. In excess it may remain tacky and attract soil.
Synonyms: Wool wax.
Latigo Leather: Definition: A chrome-veg retanned, oil/wax-rich leather known for durability and outdoor use. Clean gently and avoid over-oiling to prevent saturation.
Context: Ideal for straps and belts.
Leather Balm: Definition: A conditioning blend of oils and waxes formulated to nourish and add a light protective sheen. Neutral versions are preferred for color-sensitive items.
See also: Conditioner.

M

Microfiber Cloth: Definition: A soft, lint-free synthetic cloth used for applying cleaners, protectants, and for buffing. It reduces abrasion and helps evenly distribute products.
Synonyms: Non-woven towel.
Mink Oil: Definition: A traditional softening fat that improves water resistance but can darken leather and weaken cotton stitching over time. Many modern, non-yellowing conditioners are preferable for fine goods.
Context: Use sparingly on work boots and outdoor gear.
Mold/Mildew: Definition: Fungal growth on damp leather that presents as musty odor and surface spotting. Address by drying, HEPA vacuuming, applying leather-safe biocides, and controlling humidity.
See also: Fungicide/Mildew Inhibitor.

N

Nubuck: Definition: Top-grain leather lightly sanded on the grain side to create a fine nap. It is stain-prone and should be maintained with nubuck brushes, erasers, and repellents rather than oily conditioners.
Context: Spot test cleaners to prevent darkening.
Neutral pH: Definition: A pH around 7 that is generally safe for most finished leathers and helps prevent dye bleed and fiber damage. pH-appropriate products are essential for routine cleaning.
See also: pH Balance.
Neatsfoot Oil: Definition: A classic leather oil derived from cattle feet/shin bones that softens and conditions. It can oxidize and darken leather over time; modern alternatives may be more stable.
Context: Patch test on light veg-tan.

O

Oiling: Definition: The deliberate addition of oils to restore lubrication and flexibility, best suited to dry vegetable-tanned or oil-tanned leathers. Apply sparingly to avoid saturation and blotching.
See also: Conditioner.
Oxidation: Definition: A chemical reaction that darkens and stiffens oils and finishes, contributing to rancid odors and embrittlement. Slow it with cool, dark storage and stable humidity.
Context: A driver of long-term aging.
Overdye: Definition: Applying additional dye to refresh color or adjust tone, often followed by sealing to prevent rub-off. Proper prep and compatible finish are essential for durability.
See also: Dye Migration; Topcoat.

P

Patina: Definition: The desirable visual aging in leather from use, oils, and light exposure. It is prized on aniline and vegetable-tanned leathers and is preserved by minimalist care.
Synonyms: Character; Burnish.
pH Balance: Definition: Matching product acidity/alkalinity to leather type to avoid swelling, dye bleed, and hydrolysis. When in doubt, favor pH-neutral or slightly acidic products and test first.
Context: Critical for delicate finishes.
Pull-Up Leather: Definition: A wax/oil-rich leather that lightens when bent or stretched due to internal wax displacement. Minor scratches can be reduced with gentle heat and wax refreshers.
See also: Impregnated Leather.

Q

Quaternary Ammonium Compounds (Quats): Definition: Disinfectants used at low concentrations to control microbes, including mold, on leather surfaces. They can leave residue and should be wiped or rinsed per instructions.
See also: Fungicide/Mildew Inhibitor.
Quill Follicles (Ostrich): Definition: The characteristic raised follicle pattern on ostrich leather that traps soil at the base. Clean with soft brushes and light conditioners to maintain definition.
Context: Avoid heavy oils that can flatten texture.
Quick Spot Test: Definition: A discrete test on an inconspicuous area to assess colorfastness and finish compatibility before treatment. It reduces the risk of dye lift and finish damage.
Synonyms: Patch test.

R

Reconditioning: Definition: A methodical process involving cleaning, hydrating, and sealing to restore suppleness and appearance. It may include minor recoloring and finish repair.
See also: Conditioner; Finish (Topcoat).
Resin Finish: Definition: A polymeric protective coat that enhances abrasion and stain resistance. It can slightly reduce breathability compared to uncoated aniline leathers.
Synonyms: Protective topcoat.
Red Rot: Definition: Acid-driven deterioration of old vegetable-tanned leathers, especially in bookbindings, producing a reddish powder. Conservation involves consolidation rather than oiling.
Context: Requires archival-grade products.

S

Saddle Soap: Definition: A traditional cleaner/conditioner containing soaps and fats that can be alkaline. Use sparingly on modern finishes to avoid residue and pH imbalance.
Alternatives: pH-balanced cleaners.
Suede: Definition: Split leather with a napped surface that readily absorbs stains and water. Maintain with erasers, suede brushes, and hydrophobic sprays; avoid liquid cleaners whenever possible.
Context: Blot, don’t rub, when wet.
Solvent: Definition: A liquid that dissolves oils, waxes, or resins (e.g., alcohols, hydrocarbons), used for spot treatment and prep. It can damage finishes and desiccate leather if misused.
See also: De-Glazer.

T

Topcoat: Definition: The final protective layer that sets sheen, touch, and resistance to abrasion and staining. Reapplication restores protection after recoloring or heavy wear.
See also: Acrylic Finish; Resin Finish.
Tallow: Definition: Rendered animal fat historically used to waterproof and condition, especially on harness leathers. It can oxidize, attract dirt, and is less favored for fine goods today.
Context: Consider modern wax blends.
Tanner’s Oil (Stuffing): Definition: Heavy oil/wax blends infused at the tannery to lubricate fibers and enhance weather resistance. Maintenance should avoid over-saturating already stuffed leather.
See also: Oiling.

U

UV Degradation: Definition: Sunlight-induced fading and embrittlement of dyes, finishes, and fibers. Mitigate with UV-resistant finishes, window films, and careful placement.
Context: Critical for automotive and window-side upholstery.
Upholstery Leather Care: Definition: Maintenance protocols for furniture and automotive leathers, which are often pigmented and more cleanable. Use mild cleaners, periodic protection creams, and soft cloths.
See also: Pigmented Leather.
Urethane (PU) Coating: Definition: A polyurethane finish layer providing high stain and abrasion resistance. Avoid oil-heavy conditioners that can create haze or soften the coating.
Synonyms: PU finish.

V

Vegetable-Tanned (Veg-Tan) Leather: Definition: Leather tanned with plant tannins, valued for firmness and patina development. It is sensitive to water and alkaline products and benefits from light oils and waxes.
Context: Common in belts, sheaths, and artisan goods.
Verdigris: Definition: Green copper salts forming on brass/copper hardware that can migrate into leather, staining and weakening fibers. Remove carefully and isolate metal with lacquer or barriers.
See also: Hardware Verdigris.
Vachetta Leather: Definition: Unfinished, pale vegetable-tanned leather used for handles and trims, highly absorbent and patina-prone. Protect early, handle with clean hands, and avoid dark liquids.
Context: Rapid patina is normal.

W

Water-Based Cleaner: Definition: A pH-balanced surfactant solution designed to lift soils without harming finishes. Wipe residues and dry thoroughly to prevent wicking lines.
See also: Neutral pH.
Waterproofing: Definition: Enhancing water repellency via waxes or repellents while balancing breathability. Reapply periodically and avoid over-occluding aniline leathers.
Synonyms: Proofing.
Wicking: Definition: Capillary movement of liquids through leather that can spread stains and create tide marks. Control moisture and clean from the stain edge inward to limit halos.
Context: Critical during spot cleaning.

X

Xylene: Definition: A strong aromatic solvent sometimes used in industrial finish removal and degreasing. It is aggressive and hazardous and is generally avoided in consumer leather care.
See also: Solvent.
X-Linking Agents (Crosslinkers): Definition: Additives that chemically strengthen finishes by forming crosslinks, improving durability and solvent resistance. They require precise ratios and curing times for effectiveness.
Context: Professional refinishing.
Xerophilic Mold: Definition: Fungi capable of growing in low-humidity, oily environments that can colonize some leathers. Treat with appropriate biocides and improve ventilation and cleanliness.
See also: Mold/Mildew.

Y

Yellowing: Definition: Discoloration from UV exposure, oxidation, or product residues, especially noticeable on white or pastel leathers. Prevent with non-yellowing finishes and storage away from sunlight.
Context: Common in automotive interiors.
Yield (Cutting Yield): Definition: The usable percentage of a hide after defects and grain variations are considered, influencing replacement panel selection. In repairs, matching yield helps color and texture consistency.
Context: Relevant for upholstery panels.
Yarn Dye Transfer (Indigo): Definition: Migration of indigo dyes from denim or textiles onto leather surfaces. Protect high-risk areas and clean promptly to prevent setting.
See also: Color Transfer.

Z

Zinc Stearate: Definition: A lubricating zinc soap used in polishes and edge compounds to improve slip and sheen. Overuse can leave a whitish cast on dark leathers.
Context: Formulation component.
Zipper Stain Transfer: Definition: Discoloration from metal zipper corrosion products contacting leather. Clean, neutralize, and isolate with sealers to prevent recurrence.
See also: Verdigris.
Zero-VOC Products: Definition: Leather care formulations with no volatile organic compounds, preferred for indoor air quality. They may have longer cure times and different handling properties.
Context: Eco-conscious maintenance.